Let me
begin with something basic that many Indians are unaware of. When I say Mysore,
do you immediately think of Tipu Sultan? In that case, you should know that
Tipu and his father Hyder Ali are just one small island in the ocean of the
Wadiyar reign. The Wadiyars (sometimes spelt Wodeyar) were the Hindu kings of
the Kingdom of Mysore. Starting with Yaduraya Wadiyar in 1399, they ruled
Mysore almost uninterrupted right up to Independence. Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan
usurped power through military might and ruled Mysore from 1761 to 1799. Their
colluding with the French thoroughly alarmed the East India Company, which
ultimately defeated Tipu and restored the Wadiyars to the throne, albeit with a
serious caveat. Large parts of the Kingdom had to be ceded to the English, and
what remained became in effects a British dependency, with a Chief
Commissioner, a.k.a. “resident” dictating much of the King’s decisions.
Right
from its inception, Mysore has remained the capital of the Wadiyar Kings. There
are multiple palaces still in existence around the city today, however “Mysore
Palace” describes one specific structure, also known as the Amba Vilas Palace.
The old palace that originally stood in this place was built of wood and got
accidentally burnt down during the marriage of Jayalakshammanni, the eldest
daughter of the King, Chamaraja Wadiyar, in 1897. Construction work on the
present palace began in the same year and was completed in 1912 at the cost of
42 lakh rupees. Designed by British architect Henry Irwin, Mysore Palace is one
of the most magnificent examples of the Indo-Saracenic school, which blends
European and Indian architectural styles. If you look closely, you will find
Gothic arches, Rajput windows, Islamic domes and minarets and Hindu temple-like
ornamentation, all in the same building. |
| Sri Shweta Varahaswamy Temple |
The best
view of the Palace is from the Jayamarthanda Gate. However, entrance is from
the Southern gate. The Jayamarthanda Gate is used only for ceremonial
occasions, when the King’s procession leaves the Palace. The Coat of arms of
the Mysore Royal family may be seen atop the Jayamarthanda Gate. The
“Gandaberunda” a mythological, two-headed bird with special powers was used by
many South Indian kingdoms in their coat of arms, and is seen here as well.
Through the South gate, you will find the Palace surrounded by vast, well-kept
grounds. Within the grounds are 8 temples, Kodi Bharravasvami Temple, the
oldest Sri Lakshmiramana Swami Temple near the Western part of the fort, Sri
Shweta Varahaswamy Temple near the South gate, Sri Trinayaneshvara Swami Temple
on the banks of the Devaraya Sagar, Sri Prasanna Krishanswami temple, Kille
Venkatramana Swamy Temple, Sri Bhuvaneshwari Temple near the Northern side of
the Palace and finally the Sri Gayatri Temple, near the South Eastern corner.
Around the Palace are also eight bronze tigers, which look like they are ready
to pounce. These fierce and majestic sculptures were made by renowned British
artist William Robert Colton in 1909.
 |
| Mysore Coat of arms. Note Gandaberunda on shield. |
Photography
within the grounds is permitted, but to enter the Palace itself, cameras must
be deposited with security staff near the Southern gate. While a board says
that this is a free service, the people at the counter demand tips. 10 to 20
rupees will usually suffice. Inside the palace, there is now a museum,
containing relics from the royal family. There are also two durbar halls, a
kalyan mandapam where royal weddings were held, and many many other things to
see. Special devices containing audio narration, known as “narrow cast” are available
and are much much better than a conventional guide. I recommend getting these
devices from a counter designated for the purpose. Shoes must be removed and
deposited in return for a token and a small fee as well. Intricately decorated
doors made of solid silver, the magnificent royal portrait gallery, ornate
howdas for elephants on which the King would sit, the royal armoury, there is
much to see in the Palace, and it will take the better part of a day, perhaps
even longer if you are a photographer. For children (and adults), there are elephant
and camel rides as well, for a small fee. On Monday, Wednesday, and Friday,
after regular palace timings, a light and sound show is held and on every
Sunday night, as well as public holidays, Mysore Palace is illuminated with
more than 90,000 lights, which is a sight to behold. Entry during this time is
not permitted, but photography from outside is allowed.
TRAVEL
TIPS
- Although winter is a good time to visit Mysore, due to its elevation, Mysore enjoys beautifully mild weather all year round.
- The easiest way to reach Mysore is to take a flight to Bangalore. From Bangalore, Mysore may be reached in a couple of hours via train or one of Karnataka’s many and excellent and comfortable buses. If you do travel by train, remember to try the dosa, coffee and a sort of salty biscuit with roasted garlic which is sold by vendors.
- To avoid being fleeced by unscrupulous people at the Mysore Palace, check out this link.
- If you have a sweet tooth, the local sweet, Mysore Pak is an absolute must try. For the good stuff, try any branch of Mahalakshmi Sweets. Check out their official site, here.
- by Deepanjan Ghosh
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I am
grateful to my friend Prasenjit Das for being my guide and host around Mysore.
SOURCES
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