I
discovered Bose House in Serampore purely by chance. Actually even using the
word “discovered” would be inaccurate. It would imply that I came upon
something, and knew what it was. I did not. I was doing my rounds of Serampore,
taking photographs of the town’s colonial era buildings, and just happened to
drive past the building on 22, T.C. Goswami Street. I was struck both by the
size and obvious magnificence of the structure, and it’s almost frightening
decay. I told the chauffeur to pull over, and entered to take some photographs
that I was pretty certain I would never use.
Monday, 31 August 2015
Monday, 24 August 2015
Royal Exchange, Clive Street
To rid
the city of what it calls its “colonial hangover”, the government of West Bengal has renamed the road once known as Royal Exchange Place, to India
Exchange Place, although the building that houses the Bengal Chamber of
Commerce still bears the name “Royal Exchange” in gigantic letters on its
façade. The list of people who have at some point occupied these premises on
Clive Street (now Netaji Subhas Road), is a long and impressive one.
Monday, 17 August 2015
Christ Church, Lucknow
Located in the Hazratganj area, Christ Church is
Lucknow’s oldest Church, built in 1860. The first Anglican Church in North
India, and probably the third in all of India, was the St. Mary’s Church, located
inside Lucknow’s Residency. During the mutiny of 1857, it was heavily shelled
by the rebels and was completely destroyed. For the next few years, services
were held inside the tomb of Nawaab Saadat Ali Khan II. Christ Church was
designed by Lt. Swetenham of the Royal Engineers and was consecrated by Bishop
Cotton on 26th November, 1860.
Monday, 10 August 2015
Dzongu, North Sikkim: Holy Land of the Lepchas
North Sikkim Travelogue Part 3
For the last leg of
our 2014 trip to North Sikkim, our travel agent suggested that we try the Mayal
Lyang homestay in Dzongu. Bordered by the Teesta River in the south-east,
Tholung Chu River in the north-east and by rising mountains in the west, Dzongu
is a forested mountain valley that is a reserve for the Lepcha people. The
Lepcha are the indigenous people of Sikkim, with their own language and script,
distinct culture and cuisine and are mostly Tibetan Buddhist. Our hosts were
Gyatso and Samsay Lepcha, and their family.
Monday, 3 August 2015
Kamarghat Dwadosh Shiv Mandir, Prankrishna Chandra Lane
I was
exploring the temples in the Chetla area of South Calcutta (Kolkata) when I
found the Kamarghat Dwadosh Shiv Mandir, completely by accident. I was there
with my friends Amartya, Soumyadeep and Sourav, visiting the Radhanath Temple
of Mondal Temple Lane and the Baro Ras Bari and Chhoto Ras Bari of Tollygunge
Road when a local walked up to us. All of us were carrying rather large
cameras, so it was quite obvious what we were here for. Since we were
photographing old temples, he asked us if we had seen the “Baro Shiv Mandir”, a
group of 12 Shiva Temples which he assured us was quite old. With guidance from
locals, all of whom were aware of the existence of the temple, we reached a
large courtyard on Pran Krishna Chandra Street and found written on the wall
the words “Kamarghat Dwadosh Shiv Mandir” and the date 1259, according to the
Bengali calendar.
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