Like
many others, I too had passed by the Myanmar (Burma) Buddhist Temple on Eden
Hospital Road (now Dr. Lalit Banerjee Sarani) in Calcutta (Kolkata) many times without being aware of it, until
the evening the white sign with red and green letters caught my eye. A Burmese
Buddhist Temple in Calcutta is not all that unusual. Burma, or Myanmar as she
is now known, was once part of the British Indian Empire. Many Indians,
especially Bengalis were settled in Burma and had to leave their homes and
return to India during the turbulent years of the Independence struggle. There
was a small but significant Burmese presence in Calcutta (Kolkata) as well of
which few vestiges still remain.
The Myanmar
(Burma) Buddhist Temple is devoid of any external architectural significance;
just another decaying building in a mostly decaying neighbourhood with masses of
unruly electrical wiring hanging from every conceivable place. That’s because
this was not really a purpose built temple, unlike the Chinese Temples of
Tiretta Bazar, nearby. The building was purchased from an Indian in 1928 by a
Burmese national, U San Min, for the sum of Rs. 47,000. U San Min named it the
“Burma Buddhist Dharmasala, Calcutta”. The first presiding monk was Rev. U
Nandawuntha. In 1932, U San Min handed over the temple to the monks and ever
since the Burmese have been electing monks who are sent over to Calcutta to
take charge of the temple. The ground floor of the building on 10 A, Eden Hospital Road is leased
out to shops. The first floor functions as a guest house for visitors from Myanmar. The temple is located on the second floor. The gate on the
ground floor is almost always locked. I had arranged for permission to visit
and photograph the temple through the help of my friend Shabnam and her family.
As I walked up the stairs, I felt like I had passed through some kind of portal,
and entered a different world. The signs on the walls were all in Burmese! The
only sign I could read said “Please remove your shoe”.
On the 2nd floor of the Myanmar (Burma) Buddhist Temple I
entered a large hall. On the Eastern side was a shrine, and inside I found an
idol of Buddha unlike any I had seen anywhere in Calcutta (Kolkata). The seated idol was made of marble,
and clothed in what looks like gold. It could as well be highly polished brass,
but the sunlight streaming through the skylight directly above the idol creates
such a dazzling effect that any such rational thoughts are banished from the
mind. The crown on the idol is very typical of Burma, and surrounding the idol
are smaller statues of figures prostrating themselves before the Buddha.
Unfortunately a glass pane directly in front of the idol prevents a straight
shot. Shots must be taken through narrow openings on either side. The openings
are wide enough to admit a person, and the High Priest suggested that I step
inside. But since I am not a Buddhist, I politely declined. Flower and fruit
offerings to the Buddha can be seen around the idol, and it is covered by two
beautiful umbrellas with gold leaves hanging from the sides. Near the base is a
photograph, probably of the first High Priest of the Myanmar (Burma) Buddhist
Temple, Rev. U Nandawuntha.
The
present High Priest, Ashin Thireinda treated me to a cup of hot tea and some
cake while telling me about the present state of the Myanmar (Burma) Buddhist
Temple. Tourists from Myanmar visit during the winter months, and the
temple still accommodates trainee monks. His main worry seems to be the
surrounding buildings which are in bad shape. If a fire ever broke out in any
of them, the temple would be at risk. The interiors of the temple, by contrast,
are in fair condition right now, well maintained and scrupulously clean. Many
of the things that are in use, such as the refrigerator, have been donated by
devotees and their names are written on them. The Myanmar (Burma) Buddhist Temple also finds mention in Amitav Ghosh's novel "The Glass Palace", where it is said to be a favourite haunt of the principal character, Rajkumar.
Directions
to the Myanmar (Burma) Buddhist Temple are simple. Get off at the Central Metro
station, and look around for a black statue of Maharana Pratap on horseback. If
you are facing the statue, Eden Hospital Road is to its left, and the temple is
just a couple of buildings down the road. Here’s is what it looks like in Google Maps. To avoid disappointment and misunderstanding, take prior
permission before taking photographs. For that, write to the High Priest Ashin
Thireinda at uthirein@gmail.com.
- by Deepanjan Ghosh
SUGGESTED FURTHER READING
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I am grateful to my friend Shabnam, and her family for getting all necessary permissions for me to visit and shoot inside the temple. Shabnam's excellent chauffeur Bubun drove me around on this trip.
SOURCES
Temples in Calcutta – Roy, Pijush Kanti
Notes on Myanmar Buddhist Temple – Aung Than
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